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Wave run-up on rubble breakwaters: spectral effects
Van de Walle, B.; De Rouck, J.; Troch, P.; Geeraerts, J.; Frigaard, P. (2005). Wave run-up on rubble breakwaters: spectral effects. Maritime Engineering 158(2): 59-67
In: Maritime Engineering. Thomas Telford: London (1 Heron Quay, London, E14 4JD). ISSN 1741-7597; e-ISSN 1751-7737, more
Peer reviewed article  

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Keyword
    Marine/Coastal
Author keywords
    coastal engineering; design methods & aids; sea defences

Authors  Top 
  • Geeraerts, J., more
  • Frigaard, P.

Abstract
    Seven sets of data for wave run-up on a rubble mound breakwater were combined and re-analysed, with full-scale, large-scale and small-scale model test results being taken into account. The dimensionless wave run-up value Ru 2%/H m0 was considered, where Ru 2% is the wave run-up height exceeded by 2% of the wave run-up events and H m0 is the significant wave height. The wave run-up data sets were compared and a clear influence of the spectral shape, characterised by the spectral width parameter e, on wave run-up was noticed: high values of e correspond to high values of Ru 2%/H m0 and vice versa. Differences in wave run-up results between the various data sets could be explained by a difference in spectral width observed within these data sets. A multi-regression formula was fitted to all wave run-up data. The formula is valid for permeable rubble mound breakwaters covered with either grooved cubes or rip-rap with a slope steeper than 1 : 2, surging waves and a JONSWAP-type wave spectrum.

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