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Recent developments in cross-shore coastal profile modeling
In: Journal of Marine Science and Engineering. MDPI: Basel. ISSN 2077-1312; e-ISSN 2077-1312
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| Trefwoorden |
Erosion > Coastal erosion
Sandy beaches
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| Author keywords |
cross-shore profile modelling; coastal profiles; wave runup; gravel beaches |
| Auteurs | | Top |
- van Rijn, L.C.
- Dumont, K.
- Malherbe, B.
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| Abstract |
Coastal profile models are frequently used for the computation of storm-induced erosion at (nourished) beaches. Attention is focused on new developments and new validation exercises for the detailed process-based CROSMOR-model for the computation of storm-induced morphological changes in sand and gravel coasts. The following new model improvements are studied: (1) improved runup equations based on the available field data; (2) the inclusion of the uniformity coefficient (Cu = d60/d10) of the bed material affecting the settling velocity of the suspended sediment and thus the suspended sediment transport; (3) the inclusion of hard bottom layers, so that the effect of a submerged breakwater on the beach–dune morphology can be assessed; and (4) the determination of adequate model settings for the accretive and erosive conditions of coarse gravel–shingle types of coasts (sediment range of 2 to 40 mm). The improved model has been extensively validated for sand and gravel coasts using the available field data sets. Furthermore, a series of sensitivity computations have been made to study the numerical parameters (time step, grid size and bed-smoothing) and key physical parameters (sediment size, wave height, wave incidence angle, wave asymmetry and wave-induced undertow), conditions affecting the beach morphodynamic processes. Finally, the model has been used to study various alternative methods of reducing beach erosion. |
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